Intro
Feed
Vaccinations
Weaning
Shearing
Worming
Minerals
Conclusion

The first and most important requirement for llamas is a good vet that knows llamas. I'm very fortunate to have an excellent vet, others aren't so lucky. Seek out a good llama vet BEFORE you purchase and find out their recommendations on how to purchase healthy stock and the care needed in your area.

Please don't email me for further info on your area, I don't have the answers. Consult your vet, extension agent, local llama associations or clubs and reputable breeders near you.

Castalia's Once in a Blu Moon

Feed I live on an island and I feed local Timothy, pretty much free choice. If I could get exactly what I wanted, I'd feed a mixture of orchard grass with a smattering of alfalfa & oat. Straight alfalfa gave my llamas urine scald and they got too fat. Your needs in hay will vary with the weather, amount of good grazing pasture and your area. Llamas also need fresh water available at all times. Check with your local extension agent for poisonous plants in your area too. I will not give my llamas pellets, too many instances of choke have resulted in llama deaths on other farms. I give COB (rolled corn, oats and barley) with molasses to my llamas for a grain feed. This is great for winter and for nursing or late gestation dams and growing youngsters. Top Menu

Castalia's Shade Maker yawning as a newborn

Vaccinations The only vaccinations my llamas get are a CD/T shot at 3 months and a second 3 weeks later. Then they get a yearly CD/T. You may need to vaccinate for more in your area, consult your vet. Top Menu

Castalia's Haili Moe Panda at 10 mos and a bit of Castalia's Countess Honeypie at 8 mos.

Weaning I prefer to let my dams do most of the weaning, but I separate male crias from dams at 7 to 8 months. I do not keep young males and females together because I've heard of females as young as 4 months getting pregnant and males as young as 7 months settling females. Since my farm is small, separating everyone as needed and being sure they have suitable companionship can be a challenge, but I manage and you can too. Top Menu

Castalia's Ruby Slippers

Shearing I shear with an Oster Groom Master and there are no cuts on my llamas' skin. It's not a fancy or even shear job, but it works. I leave at least an inch of fibre to protect them from sunburn and insects. Some get a barrel clip like Ruby has, others get a cria clip, leaving nothing except neck and tail wool. Even medium wooled llamas get shorn here. I want them cool and happy. Top Menu

Castalia's Sophie O'Satin at 4 months.

Worming After the first hard frost I worm with Ivomec. 3 months later I do Panacur Paste. Then I just continue back and forth every 3 months. Each kills some things that the other won't. Many areas have problems with parasites we don't have here and they can be deadly. Again, consult your vet and worm regularly. Top Menu

Castalia's Gypsy Moon as a young cria.

Minerals Llamas need minerals specifically formulated for camelids *and* the region you are in. Too much selenium can kill, too little can result in white muscle disease. Do not guess, ask your vet what is appropriate for your area. Free choice minerals in wall hanging containers are available to all my llamas at all times. Salt licks are not adequate for llamas. Top Menu

Castalia's Rammalita at one week. She looks more like her grandsire than her sire.

Conclusion Llamas also need tooth and toenail care, protection from predators and heat stress, adequate shelter, sensible training and love. Given all of these things along with the above, they are usually very easy to care for. But they are *large* stock, not rabbits, and they can develop behavior problems if not raised and trained properly, just as any animal can. Top Menu